I stood aside at the entrance of this handsome pub in the gorgeous centre of Frant, tucked away from the too-busy road to Tunbridge Wells, to let a couple of active pensioners in stout shoes continue with their Sunday walk, having no doubt just fortified themselves inside with a half each of tasty Harvey's bitter. The George is that kind of pub, attracting hikers and other passers-by who will have heard about its low beams, friendly atmosphere and air of slightly faded elegance, but it’s definitely a locals’ hang-out too. At the bar a waffle of elderly gents in sensible slacks harrumph good-naturedly while at a nearby table, decorated with a fresh flower, a family of four leaf through the Sunday supplements as they wait for lunch, served here in the saloon or in the separate restaurant. The food looks good – I fancied fish soup (£5.95) followed by red mullet with tomato and fennel beurre blanc sauce (£12.95) – but not the wine (Gregory, the landlord, slightly harassed-looking but happy to stop a moment to chat, is about to give it a much-needed overhaul). Outside in a large, secure garden, which actually looks like someone’s garden, with trees and shrubs and other plants, kids run around and no one tuts. It’s that kind of pub.
George Inn, Frant, 01892 750350, www.thegeorgefrant.co.uk
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